Climbing near Moena: 5 crags

The wall towering above you, the challenge of the routes, the effort. The sweat, the aching fingers and toes, the strain. The distance shrinking bit by bit, the rests when you feel you can’t go on, the excitement of the last few metres. Climbing is all this and much more: love for the mountains and a challenge with yourself. Nothing is ever taken for granted, and being able to climb in a setting as spectacular as Val di Fassa is a very special bonus.

In addition to the indoor climbing walls in the valley (in Moena there is one in the middle school gym), there are countless routes available, each more beautiful than the last. We have chosen 5 for you.

Climbing around Moena: the Ronchi crag

Two splendid south-facing crags you can climb all year round, except when there is snow. You reach them along the road to the San Pellegrino Pass, at Ronchi. Take the no-entry road heading back towards Moena; after 300 m, a path on the right quickly leads to the gully.

Here there are around twenty short routes of medium-high difficulty, from 6a/b up to 7b. Excellent bolting on clean limestone.

Climbing around Moena: the San Nicolò valley

A crag that is a real challenge even for the most experienced. Entering the San Nicolò valley from Pozza di Fassa – one of the most loved valleys, admired for its stunning scenery – just before it opens onto the meadows, a path on the left leads straight to the Masso di Kendo. There are many crags in the area, about 30, all clearly visible. All the routes are demanding, suitable for professionals or experts, starting from 7a, with several overhanging sections and many grade-8 routes, up to 8b.

Climbing in Val di Fassa: Alba di Canazei for beginners

Moving away from Moena towards easier routes, in Alba di Canazei there is a lovely crag for beginners: the perfect place to tackle your first walls, get to know the rock and face your first difficulties without too much risk or height. Just outside Alba, towards the Marmolada, you will find two splendid blocks of volcanic rock, a few metres from the road and a convenient car park. Good, easy holds and routes graded between 4 and 6 offer anyone a pleasant first experience.

Climbing in Val di Fassa: Pian Schiavaneis

One of the most iconic and interesting places for climbing on the Dolomite passes. Along the road from Canazei to the Sella Pass, park near the Schiavaneis and Monti Pallidi huts and you will reach the routes in a few minutes. Crossing the stream towards the wall, you will find 4 parallel sectors:

  • the Centrale, with many very hard pitches between 7 and 8, for experts only;
  • the No Big Area, a small wall to the right of the other three, with routes that are not too technical but overhanging, between 5c and 6c+;
  • eleven routes on the Sasso Gabriel, decidedly technical, some of which can be tackled by less experienced climbers (seconding), from 6a to 7a+;
  • the Placca, the most varied boulder, with three 5b/5c pitches, a couple of 6b/6c, three beautiful and very demanding grade-7 routes, and even an 8a.

An area truly for all tastes.

Climbing in Val di Fassa: the Città dei Sassi at the Sella Pass

One of the most beautiful, varied and important open-air climbing areas in Italy, in a breathtaking natural setting, the Città dei Sassi (“City of Stones”) offers a splendid series of crags near the lifts to the Sassolungo. Park at the foot of the gondola and take the path branching off to the right from the car park. In a few minutes you will come across a series of dolomite rock formations, which are actually huge boulders that broke away from the Sassolungo over the centuries. It is a very popular spot, both with tourists (the gently sloping dirt road and incredible scenery are inviting) and with climbers coming from Val Gardena. There are no fewer than 157 single-pitch routes, graded from 3 to 7c+.

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